Jurassic Lake - Solid Adventures Fly Fishing Argentina

For several years I have been haunted by photos and stories from anglers who had fished a place called Jurassic Lake. Located in the desolate heart of Argentina’s Patagonian steppe, the lake was reportedly loaded with football shaped wild rainbows that averaged 10-15lbs and were thought to top 30lbs. If this was true, I needed to know. Being an avid steelheader (i.e. a masochist), I also needed to know the truth about the Rio Santa Cruz and the world’s only established race of Atlantic Steelhead.

I knew full well that both of these trips worked well as a combined week, but to be honest, I was not brave enough to initiate this trip myself. That changed though when friend and client Ken Dayton committed to making the journey. I knew that hooking an Atlantic Steelhead on Southern Patagonia’s second largest river was going to be tough. As I reached out to Dave Mitchell and Dale Jessup to join in on our adventure, all I could promise them was massive glacial water, high winds and possibly an Atlantic Steelhead merit badge. And after three days of steelhead fishing I promised them a grueling drive into a barren lake that would forever change what they knew about fishing for trophy trout. 

As for the Rio Santa Cruz and the sprawling no-frills Estancia San Ramon, it was much as we had expected. The water was massive, semi featureless and an intriguing milky blue. The landscape was harsh, the winds strong and the steelhead were harder to come by than in previous seasons. During our three days my crew of four landed three, lost three and had roughly six other “pulls”. From the tentative elastic nature of the takes, the fish were clearly on the move and there just seemed to be very few of them around. Typically anglers catch 1-2 fish a day on the river with additional takes but for us that was not the case. Does that sound strangely familiar?


As for the fish that we caught, they ran from 8-14 pounds, and they were bright, handsome and hard-fighting. While many of the guides encouraged that we retrieve or strip the fly during the swing, we chose not to and are happy to report that fishing the way we enjoy at home also works in Argentina. Lastly, while a massive river, the Rio Santa Cruz is an interesting place and there were several key runs that were laid out in such a way that you could really recognize and feel the potential. Is a week there too much? For most anglers I would say yes, but three days in March or April is just right especially when coupled with a sure thing like Jurassic Lake.

So, what is Jurassic Lake? In simple terms, it is the most prolific trophy rainbow fishery in the world and a tough place to get in and out of. The infamous and aptly named “Drive from Hell” takes 10.5 hours from the Rio Santa Cruz and 8.5 hours from Calafate. The last four hours of the drive are very intense 4x4 travel and provide a core workout that you will never forget. Measuring 20km by 20km the lake itself is like a massive inland ocean complete with a rocky shoreline, deep blue cuts, high winds and white caps. The lake has no outlet and a very small but important inlet where our camp is located. Fish spawn in this inlet throughout much of the year and great numbers of fish tend to congregate in an area about twice the size of a football field where the little inlet enters the lake. The last note of significance is that this lake has an overabundance of scuds and was first planted with rainbows less than 15 years ago. As a result, the growth curve has been exceedingly steep and the lake has not yet reached its carrying capacity. In simple terms what this means is that these are the good old days of Jurassic Lake and that things will in all likelihood, continue to improve (if that is possible) for an unknown number of years to come.

So how good is it? Let me start by saying that we hit it under poor conditions, meaning that there was a brutal cold snap, complete with ice in the guides, multiple inches of snow, and temperatures so cold that the diesel jellified in the truck engines. Yet with that being the case what we experienced blew our minds and exceeded our expectations. We hammered fish that averaged 11-12 pounds and the vast majority of them were HOT! All of us landed at least 12-15 big fish a day and our top rod landed closer to 30 a day. In two days of fishing I was personally broken off twice on 15 pound Maxima (which I would have previously thought impossible), I snapped a #4 heavy wire hook in half, witnessed countless blistering runs, spectacular aerial displays, as well as a number of fish landed by our group that were in the 20 pound class. There were larger fish lost (some which I would bet beat 30 pounds), there were fish hooked while the spey casters swept into their D-loops, and throughout the days, sometimes as far as the eye could see, there were massive trout free jumping in the middle of the lake like sailfish. Everyone caught more than their fair share and for a driven angler, landing 300-500 pounds of truly wild rainbow trout a day would not be a problem. What made the trip for me were a few sessions where I was able to stand on the bank and sight cast to dark forms and nervous water and hook monstrous fish on a super short line in shallow water. I can still hear the mono snapping as those fish cart-wheeled away!

Far End Rivers Fly Fishing Argentina

Given my love of small streams and any fish that go to sea, the call I received last fall seemed providence. 

The message was from Alex Trochine, a young Argentine fishing guide I had met on the Rio Grande a few years prior. The note was brief and said he had found a small river south of the Rio Grande. It was intimate, interesting fishing, with decent numbers of sea-run browns and best of all they were BIG. Along with the note were a dozen images from their scouting trip in the fall of 2007. After reading the letter once or twice and then flipping through the photos once or twice (actually it was more like a dozen times), I knew this was a very special place that I needed to see.

After a series of messages that bounced between Argentina and Iceland, where Alex and his twin brother Nico guide as well, we were able to set dates and come up with a plan. 2008 would be a full exploratory season on the Irigoyen and on March 1st – 8th I would lead the 5th group to get a shot at the system. All I had to do was find a few hearty souls who would follow me to the end of the world, quite literally, too see if the river was all that the initial report made it out to be.

After making a handful of calls my group was set. The small group of competent anglers would consist of Paul Martzowka, Cary Pugh, Andy Horowitz and me. We would all meet in D.C. on Thursday Feb. 27th. From there we would fly to Buenos Aries, Argentina and finally to Ushuaia, the southernmost town on the South American continent. In Ushuaia we would be met by a member of the Far End Rivers staff who would drive us three hours by four wheel drive to the end of a dirt track and the quaint Irigoyen Lodge.

The lodge consists of a small refurbished rancher’s cabin for dining and sharing the days fishing tales as well as a new three bedroom guest cabin. The facilities were completed just hours before the first guests arrived in January. The dining cabin was complete with new furniture and satellite internet and each bedroom had new beds, storage shelves for gear, and on-demand hot water. The guides and co-managers, Alex and Nico Trochine, took great care of us on the water while the rest of the staff took care of us in typical Argentine style, serving us great meals, delicious wines, and a never ending supply of warm hospitality.

The river itself is just steps from the front door of the dining cabin and truth be told, it is as perfect a trout stream as I could imagine. Flowing 28 miles from source to sea, the river winds relentlessly through a forest of mossy Lenga trees. The river bed is small cobble, with grass banks, smooth runs, and countless deep pools created by downed trees and log jams. 

The nature of the river made all of the fishing quite interesting. All week long we swung small nymphs on single hand rods with floating lines on a virtually windless river. And the big question everyone wants to know is, did we find fish and were they big? The answer is yes we did and yes they were. We each landed good fish every day and by the end of the week we had hooked 58 and landed 39 sea-runs that averaged just over 10 pounds. Of these, three pushed the 20 pound mark. For the statistic conscious, this was to be compared with a earlier week where four anglers hooked over 120, but only landed 44 sea runs with the same average weight. 

I would say that our trip as well as the whole exploratory season was a great success. The river is a true winner and absolutely holds solid numbers of fish. Moreover the fish are big, with the largest of the season conservatively topping 24 pounds. In our opinion the Irigoyen may well win top honors as the smallest stream with the largest trout on the South American continent. And as a topper the river is absolutely beautiful and completely private. Needless to say we are looking forward to the system's future and all that it will bring!

Tierra del Fuego Lodge Fly Fishing Chile

Having known, fished with and promoted Mark Kniprath for many years (as a long time pilot guide for No-See-Um Lodge and owner of Chile’s only fly out operation Heart of the Andes) I was struck by the fact that Mark had sold his lodge near the Rio Baker and relocated to Chilean Tierra del Fuego. With aid of his float plane, Mark has long been the leader in Chilean exploratory fishing and the fact that he had given all that up for TDF was hard to understand. The one thing that we did know was that Mark knows what good fishing is and he (as well as some of his guides that we spoke to) felt that this was the best and most interesting fishing that had seen in the country. So in mid-February I packed my bags and made my sixth trip down to Chile for a closer look. 

So what exactly did I find? Well, in short I found a place that I was not ready to leave. There were trees and lots of them. The wind was very reasonable and we saw condors, guanacos, rheas, beavers, and Magellan geese. There were small spring creeks and rivers with big resident brown trout and there were intimate wadeable lakes loaded with big cruising browns which would tail like bonefish. In all honesty in three days of fishing I never caught a single fish under 16 inches and I had fish upwards of 24 inches. In short, it was incredible!

Is it sea run brown trout fishery? Well yes and no. Despite having access to 27 miles of the upper Rio Grande (where I did boil a great big sea-run) and several other adventuresome sea run venues, I really consider the fishery to be based on resident brown trout. Sea runs can figure into the equation (especially after February and through March) but they should be seen as a dessert option rather than the main entrée. Where this place really shines is for intermediate to experienced anglers who want to fish on foot and in complete solitude. If you have good walking legs and like big fish in smaller water all the better! 

The lodge itself is simple and comfortable with food to match. Nothing fancy here but everything is solid and well thought through. Is the destination worth the long trip south on its own fishing merits? Absolutely and it also makes a great addition to a week on the better know Argentine side of the Rio Grande.

Christmas Island Outfitters Fly Fishing Christmas Island

Some places are hard to get your fill of and for us Christmas Island is one of them. It isn’t that the bonefish are the biggest, or that the meals are the finest, it is just the fact that Christmas Island is a special place that leaves a lasting impression on those who visit. Here people who have little smile a lot, children wave with intrigue and delight, and the guides love their jobs and like to work long hours. For a lack of better words, Christmas Island still has an innocence about it that is sincere, palpable and ultimately enriching. 

So, how was the fishing? Well in all honesty it was a mixed bag and more challenging than I had expected. Some will tell you it’s a fishery in decline but the fact of the matter is that 2007 was an exceedingly cold season in the equatorial Pacific, the likes of which cannot be recalled. The beginning of 2008 has seen the same unpredictable weather leading to water temperatures on the flats that were between 70 and 73 degrees and that is too chilly for happy bones. It was also chilly for the anglers with many of us donning several layers on the flats. Due to the cool water temperatures, there were times when there were far fewer bonefish on the flats than we were accustomed to, and in the same breath there were some great sessions where anglers were hooking 10-20 bones in a half day. But the fact of the matter was that it was on again off again and despite a super group of skilled friendly anglers, our daily catch was rarely equitably distributed! Such is fishing.

On the bright side, we saw and hooked (and subsequently lost) some large bonefish that were in the 6 plus pound range and we had some good sessions in the blue water with wahoo upwards of 40 pounds (note the photo on a big one that was bit in half by a much larger shark). We also had a great time teasing in Giant Trevally on the small boat. Most of our party gave this a crack despite the rough seas and while it is a challenging venue best suited to skilled anglers, it is extremely exciting. The speed and aggression of these fish is most impressive as they go flat out trying to track down and kill the fleeing plug. I was fortunate and got a 40 pounder on popper, and Peter Tronquet landed an impressive 60 pounder! There were also a fair number of fish landed in the 20-30 pound class. The highlight of my Trevally day was of course the one that got away. Paul Imperia and I both cast to the fish as it charged up on our little boat. At the last minute it sucked up Paul’s fly and in the same instant turned and ate mine. We both set on it savagely and it tore off. Simon, our guide yelled for us to tighten our drags, as the fish was heading for the reef. We both did so to the point were we were certain something would fail. A moment later there was a loud snapping sound and Paul recoiled backwards and almost fell out of the boat.

 His backing had randomly snapped in the middle. Now solo, the fish pulled so hard against my drag that I feared I would lose my rod and after the fish pulled another 50 yards of backing out, my 40 pound leader butt broke and the fish was gone. In terms of fish hooked for the day it may have been the first time the boat had ever gone four for three. Good fun!

Mongolia Taimen Camp Fly Fishing Mongolia

Truth be told, I am one of the lucky few who loves travel just as much as fly fishing. Those closest to me know that traveling in Asia, multi day wilderness whitewater trips and swinging flies on rugged rivers are very high on my list of preferred activities. This fall it seems that all the stars have aligned in my favor as I will be getting a healthy dose of all of the above.

I started by traveling in September to China and Mongolia, which I will report on below. Then in early November I was off to India and Nepal for a ten day rafting expedition to chase the Himalayan Mahseer which I will report on soon.

It had been four years since my last trip to Mongolia. On my previous trip I stopped in China but was too rushed to take the time to see some of the famous sights. This time I built a few extra days into my itinerary to give me time to hike on the Great Wall and tour the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace. Should you find yourself in Beijing, I would highly recommend these sights as they are physically impressive and culturally fascinating as well. However, there were a few downsides to this part of the trip. First, as we all know China’s industrial revolution is in full swing. One result of this is that we did not see the sun the whole time we were in Beijing and it was not because of cloud cover. Second, it seems that Air China has decided that it does not need to honor flights as scheduled. The result was a 36 hour delay for our flight to Mongolia and the worst and most bizarre customer service that I have ever experienced. Luckily our schedule was such that even with travel delays we were able make it to camp in time to get in just under six full days of fishing. 

The main Taimen camp is as idyllically situated as one could imagine. Guest stay in gers (traditional Mongolian tents) that are arranged in a semi circle, on a grass infield, along a long, easy bend of a low gradient river. The rolling hills in the foreground and gentle mountains in the distance are covered in pine, larch, alder, and birch trees. The fall season is particularly scenic with the grass green from summer monsoons, combined with birch and larch trees in their fall colors of yellow and orange. 

The rivers were in perfect shape, running low and clear. We had a week of ideal weather with crisp mornings giving way to sunny, clear afternoons. Our group had a number of experienced anglers and the guide staff was comprised of the most experienced Taimen guides in the industry. By all counts I would have expected this to be an outstanding fishing week with a number of memorable fish stories being told over evening meals. As it turned out there were many stories of massive explosions on surface flies, big tugs on streamers and giant black shapes swirling around flies. Unfortunately the photos of happy anglers holding the fish of their dreams were few and far between. My own luck mirrored the groups with multiple fish over forty inches coming to my surface fly, two of them seemingly hooked quite solid, only to come unbuttoned in the end. This wasn’t to say that we did not land any fish. Along with the opportunity at bigger fish, each day the group landed good numbers of Lenok in the 20” to 30” range and a decent number of Taimen in the high 20” to low 30” range. Our guides worked hard to keep us on good water and in the game and hopeful of the big strike right to the end of every day. I just can not say enough about the talent and dedication of these guys.

While we all would have liked a few more monsters to hand, in the end we knew that all of us would likely be back to try our hand at landing the mythical 60 incher in a place that we all consider one the most magical fly fishing destinations in the world .

Crane Meadow Lodge Fly Fishing the Rockies

Last year I had the pleasure of spending two nights on the Yellowstone with one of our favorite outfitters, Tom Jenni. Tom is a true professional with great guides, gear, and attitudes. He worked hard for our group and I was so impressed with the quality of his float trips. He had mentioned I should check out his Missoula programs so this year I invited a few of my favorite fishing friends for a few days on the Clark Fork and Blackfoot Rivers. Our guides met us in front of our hotel that first morning ready to go. After a short drive with drift boats in tow we made it to our put in on the Clark Fork River. We all had to reprogram ourselves as we were now fishing 6X tippet with size #20 tricos. It was awful at first since I have been fishing 10 lb maxima for steelhead all summer. I managed to break off the first two fish as they came up to sip my fly. We encountered pods of fish eating tricos most of the morning. Then we switched to nymphing because the hoppertunity never really surfaced. We caught some nice fish and ended that day back in Missoula hitting one of the local establishments. Missoula is a charming college town with nice restaurants and shopping, and we were all happy to do what we could for the local economy. 

Mary and I choose to float the famous Blackfoot the next day and had the river to ourselves. Norman McClean made this river famous with his novel River Runs Through It and the Blackfoot has been on my list for many years. It truly is the perfect trout river with great pocket water and good populations of rainbows, browns, and native cutthroat trout. We had an incredible day of pocket water hopper fishing and Tom impressed us with his low water boating skills.

We then made our way to Crane Meadow Lodge, after a mandatory stop at the Patagonia outlet in Dillon. This was our second year in a row going to Crane Meadow and Cody and his staff were really wonderful at making us feel at home and fishing us hard each day. The ranch was teeming with plenty of deer and bird life especially the musical cranes. I enjoy Crane Meadow because it is a down home and intimate lodge right on the Ruby river with a superb fishing program.

Each morning our guides would pick us up out in front of our cabins and take us to our desired locals… the Ruby, Madison, Upper Beaverhead, Lower Beaverhead and some special spring creeks. Everyone did well and we had one extra large brown that was caught by Mary that impressed us all. It struck on the Madison and was at first thought to be a log. Both the guide and client were gleaming when this 26 inch fish was landed. 

My best personal day was on the Ruby (again this year). The Ruby is a magical small stream home to brilliant browns who love to eat dries. It is easy to wade and around each bend is endless trout habitat. I fished my favorite hopper pattern, Quiqley’s Stacker Stone fly under the perfect undercut grassy bank and had a monster mouth open up and slurp my fly. He showed himself and then turned back into the bank and disappeared. Luckily Judith and Bob witnessed the size and how special this fish was to me. J

After four days of fishing at Crane Meadow we were all smiles. Our last day had us scraping ice off the windshield, yet it was another great year in Montana and I was lucky to share it with so many wonderful people. 

Andros South Lodge, Bahamas Fly Fishing Bahamas

There’s nothing better than a few flies in your pocket, a rod in your hand, and a cold “Kalik” waiting for you at the boat.

People say you get obsessed over certain things…Yes, fishing is an obsession of mine, but in the last few years stalking bonefish on a flat has become a drug and I’m refusing treatment.

This was my first trip to the Bahamas (specifically South Andros), and I can tell you it won’t be my last. I took a small group of my loyal traveling clients to this destination on April 4 -11, 2009.

The ride in the 10 seater Cessna 402 from Fort Lauderdale was AMAZING. After the hour flight, our adventure was well underway. After clearing customs we were met by Kermit (the one and only taxi driver on South Andros). Within 15 minutes we were at the lodge and given a tour by Kateri Clay, one of our hosts for the week. We also met the ladies of the kitchen who cooked wonderful meals for the entire week. Everyone was so accommodating and available to lend a hand at any moment or answer our questions.

The rooms were simple, clean, and yes, had air conditioning. Paul and Sally Hayward took the Conch House with its decorated Conch Shell walls. The patio of the house served as our “after hours” spot after having a few drinks at the “Slack Tide Bar” on the beach. We continued the décor of the house with a line-up of Kalik beer bottles along the wall.

Our first night we were given an overview of how the week would work by John Toker. The organization of the operation impressed me as all details were clearly laid out, from lunches, to the guide/client chart, to even tipping.

What amazed me most about this destination was the diversity of the fishing. Our first guide took us chasing after huge schools of bones, where others focused on stalking singles and smaller schools along the mangroves. I really enjoyed exploring some killer wading areas with Torrie, as he has a passion for bonefish that is so contagious. If you fish with him ask for a “Cheese Doodle” fly, the bonefish find it irresistible.

The amount of barracuda available was also amazing. Often, I would be running back to the boat to retrieve my “cuda” stick after a wade for a few bones. The speed of a pissed off cuda is insane and such a rush. They attack with a sense of determination that will blow your mind!

While fishing with our guide Josie, Don Nelson and I had a killer session with a small group of Blue Runners. I hooked one, and while the others stayed with it Don cast out and stuck another. While I landed mine the school stayed with Don’s fish so I cast out again and hooked a 2nd Runner. They are such a gorgeous fish.

While the bonefishing was good, I’d have to say one of the highlights of my trip was going out offshore on Roggie’s 25-foot Prowler. This is a “must” when you go down to the Bahamas. When the seas are calm a 30 – 40 minute boat ride will take you to one of the Naval Buoys out in the open ocean where the ocean floor drops to around 3,000 feet. The numbers of dorado and tuna are mind blowing this time of year. Birds are diving and the fish are busting on the bait. Take a 10 weight, some poppers, and hold on. Dinner is served! While the boat holds 4 clients, we found it easiest for 2 to fly cast while the others use light conventional tackle while holding onto a cold one. Roggie and Steve (his deck hand) will take care of supplying the conventional tackle and bait. Oh, and they will clean your fish as well and if you are lucky enough you’ll be taking a yellow fin home for some fresh sashimi for appetizers at the Slack Tide Bar. On our trip Sally Hayward landed a nice 60 lb. tuna and another in the group brought up on around 25 lbs. There were lots of dorado to be had and often we would have multiple hook-ups both on fly and conventional tackle. In fact the day we went out was so good we went out for a half-day on our last day in Andros, as our plane didn’t leave until 5:00PM. It was a great finish to the trip!

The characters I meet up with at these exotic locations always intrigue me; it often makes better memories for me than the fishing itself. When you go down to visit stop by and see “the shell man”, have a Kalik with Sterling and bring some extra cookies for “Boy” the dog. It was also “Back to the Islands” on Friday night so we went out and enjoyed some live music, carnival games, watched the kids play and roll down the inflatable slide and played a few rounds of pool at one of the local clubs. The Bahamian people are a friendly bunch and South Andros Lodge is an amazing place to take it all in.

Tight Lines Man!

Keith Westra
Leland Fly Fishing Outfitters

Christmas Island Outfitters Fly Fishing Christmas Island

Christmas Island's economy, like most in the world, is going through tough times. But in this case the ailing global economy is only partly to blame. The major factor in Christmas Island’s downturn is the lack of angling traffic due to the cancellation of Air Pacific's weekly jet service to the island. The airline cancelled its service back in September. Shortly thereafter the government started a weekly charter service but their G1 turbo prop only enables 17 visitors/anglers per week to visit the island. This reduction in flight capacity has been tough on all the operators including our partners at Christmas Island Outfitters. Thankfully we have been very successful in finding seats for our pre-booked anglers but additional and/or last minute seats have been hard to come by. But, as is often the case, this situation has its own silver lining. The combined effect of the new laws that make it illegal to net bonefish in the inner lagoon and the substantial reduction in the number of anglers visiting the island has been overwhelmingly positive for our anglers on the flats. We have had a number of long time Christmas enthusiasts reporting fishing as good as they had back in the early 90's.

I was on Christmas Island over the new year (for my 8th time) with my long time friend and fishing partner Paul Imperia (his 9th trip). Paul and I were the only anglers on the island and we had a perfect week of weather. We fished the flats for four days and chased trevally on the outside reef for two. Three of the four days on the flats were absolutely unbelievable. With a cloudless sky, virtually no wind, and endless flats to cover, we were like two kids in a candy store. I remember telling him "I am not this good but they just keep swimming by and it seems no matter where I put the fly, they find it.” There was no reason to count numbers. If asked how many we caught our reply was, enough! More than enough actually. To make everyone feel better I will also say one of the days was quite tough. There were plenty of fish to cast to but the fly was always either too far away or too close. If you have spent much time fishing flats, you know what I mean by this.

Another bright spot for Christmas Island Outfitters has been the addition of Moana Kofe to the guide team. Biita Kairoi, the owner of Christmas Island Outfitters guide services, has made arrangements to have Moana join the rotation with long time guides Bea, TJ and the up and coming Pedro. Having quit drinking and smoking, Moana has spearheaded the recent push for the moratorium on netting as well as becoming deeply involved in the Island's new Rotary chapter. Recent groups have reported that Moana's guiding and wisdom have been a wonderful addition to the team. For those who do not know Moana, he is considered the grandfather of Christmas Island bonefishing and were you to pick one word to describe him, it would have to be "wise.” He may not have the eyes of some of our younger guides but his understanding of the island and its fishery, combined with his kind nature and teaching ability, make him an invaluable asset to the team.

So what's the future of Christmas Island flights? To be honest we do not know. We have a number of sources telling us there is a good chance we will see a larger plane servicing the island sometime soon but for the unforeseen future we will work with the G1 and its limited capacity. So for the time being it is our recommendation that the lucky few who get to the island, relish the unforeseen benefit of this unique situation.

Elk River Guiding Company Fly Fishing British Columbia

I get to fish for rising trout in beautiful places like the Elk River in Fernie, British Columbia. This past August, I took a group of six ladies to fish the Elk River and its tributaries.This was my first time to Fernie and my first time catching westslope cutthroat. The Elk River has an estimated 5,000 fish per mile and the fish are aggressive towards a fly. Most of the cutties are somewhere from 12-20 inches and are very chunky, beautiful fish. 

My group of ladies and I fished with the Elk River Guiding Company and they did a great job. The owners Paul and Ned run a solid operation and have a team of qualified and fun guides. They were all great with our group. August is prime time for dry fly fishing so we were happy we had locked in our dates almost a year in advance. Each day we enjoyed floating different sections of the Elk or wading one of its small tributaries. Our group casted green drakes, hoppers, and caddis on the edges of small pocket water and landed 15-19 inch cutties all day long on our favorite 5 weights. The Elk River is a popular place and though we did see other drift boats and anglers, it did not seem to affect the fishing. Overall I could not get over the quality of the fish in these waters. I was very impressed and just kept thinking that if I lived in Fernie – I would be out on the rivers every day. 

To get to the fishing, part of the group chose to fly into Kalispell, Montana and drive 2 ½ hours to Fernie while the rest of my group flew into Calgary and had about a 3 hour drive to the lodge. Fernie is a charming ski town surrounded by the Canadian Rockies. There are a few options as far as accommodations go in this area. You can rent a cabin or condo, stay at a local hotel, or go for the all inclusive resort. There are local golf courses, mountain biking, and hiking for everyone to enjoy. 

We picked Island Lake Lodge which is only 20 minutes from downtown Fernie. It is not the typical fishing lodge. It is not actually a fishing lodge at all. Island Lake Lodge is primarily a hiking and ski lodge tucked away up the mountain and gives you a wonderful feeling of remoteness. There are incredible views, wildlife, and very comfortable accommodations. For those who love to hike and trek, nothing could be better than Island Lake Lodge. Our lodge time was limited as we fished all day each day, but a few of us managed to take advantage of our surroundings by waking up early and hiking around the lake each morning. There are many hiking trails, including some through spectacular old growth cedar forest. The local lake has canoes and even trout fishing if time permits. 

Island Lake Lodge accommodates up to 32 overnight guests and their restaurants are open to the public. The lodge amenities include their spa with yoga classes, massage, and hot tub. Next trip I will schedule a non-fishing day to take advantage of these things. 

This is a great fishing destination for anyone who loves dry fly fishing plus it is a wonderful destination for couples or families. .

The Kola River Fly Fishing Russia

I traveled there with a group of six great guys. The plan was one week of “exploratory” fishing out of a tent camp followed by a week at the adjoining Kola River’s main lodge. In short it was the best of times and the worst of times. I have often said that Russia comes with its share of drama but if you can handle it with grace, the fishing will likely prove worth it. This trip was no exception.

Located well within the Arctic Circle near the northeastern borders of Finland and Norway, the Kola River is the northernmost of the Kola Peninsula’s significant systems. It is a rugged, handsome river with numerous deep, dazzling, boulder-strewn tailouts, an impressive 20,000-40,000 returning fish, and some of the largest (meaning 40 plus pounds) Atlantic salmon in Russia. The river flows due north entering the Barrent’s Sea smack dab in the middle of the peninsula’s largest city, Murmansk. As you might imagine, this is a mixed blessing: no helicopters needed for access and in the same breath, little escaping the locals and the often bitter realities of their lives. 

Our first week of exploratory fishing was a major disappointment if not a complete bust. The Kola tributaries and headwaters we had intended to fish were getting pounded hard by local spin fishermen and net poachers. There were communication and alcohol based issues with guides and there was very little quality water for our group to fish. It was a seemingly endless week that we should have never been offered. Tempers and the weather ran hot and by the week’s end the water temperatures rose to 68 degrees. 

Week two, however, at the Kola main lodge, did a lot to make up for the first week’s suffering. We upgraded to tidy single occupancy cabins and we had new improved guides. The weather came in hard and cold, and we were tuned up and hungry for a crack at the Kola’s prime beats. The karmic payback was essentially instantaneous. Without driveling on, we had amazing fishing and “Team America” distinguished itself with high catch rates everyday amidst a skilled international crowd. The water temperatures steadily dropped to 50 degrees over the course of three days and the river bumped up about six inches. We had days where group members went 10 for 10, 12 for 12 and on our last day one of our party members actually went 14 for 14 with seven fish between 10 and 20 pounds! 

The Kola River was loaded with Grilse (very strong bright salmon that average 5-6 pounds) but there were good numbers of large adult salmon as well. Virtually every member of our group landed fish in the 20 plus pound class and there were plenty of big fish lost. One fish in the 35-40 pound class was lost after its fourth jump. I had the good fortune of watching the entire event unfold. Hooked by my companion after having seen it roll, the beast headed straight upstream making two low angle jumps along the way. I reeled my line in frantically so as to not complicate the affair and the next thing I knew the monster jumped right at me less than a rod’s length away. It appeared as though there was a case of mistaken identity and that the fish was trying to knock me off my rock! I could see it clearly; its actions severely slowed by it lumbering size. I can safely say that it was the biggest, darkest and most frightening salmonid I had ever seen. It was in excess of 45 inches and its leathery alligator-like head had to be 15 inches long. The fact that it neither growled nor roared as it passed me left me with a confused empty feeling. Next the creature turned downstream and made a desperate wallowing leap like a fat man being chased by hornets through waste deep water. Then it turned back towards the angler, rushing him until line and backing went slack and then he, and our ability to describe the experience, was gone. 

In camp the discussions surrounding fly selection were ceaseless, but in the end we caught fish on every conceivable technique and fly pattern possible. Effective flies ranged from tiny hitched surface tubes to big sunrays stripped through slack water. By week’s end, our group of seven had landed roughly 230 fish and the lodge had its highest catch rate ever with over 500 fish landed! How quickly the problems of the past can dissolve!

So what is the upshot? The bottom line is that the Kola is a great river despite the prerequisite drama and semi-urban interface that it entails. Its awesome fish and exquisite structure are deeply compelling if not addictive. Now after having been there and knowing what to expect, I am eager to return. For the highest catch rates and maximum amount of dry line, dry fly and wade fishing, consider the dates we hold during the second week of July. For those willing to work hard from the raft for a few big, bright, hard to land monsters, consider some of the more expensive weeks in June. In either event, the Kola lodge is a great base for the hardened anadromous angler in search of the real Russia and the largest trophy salmon it has to offer.

Mahaseer Fishing India Fly Fishing India

Over the past year Fly Water Travel has done just that and has hosted, facilitated and followed a number of missions to the giant freestone rivers that flow from the peaks of the Himalayas in Northern India. Our quarry was the mighty Himalayan mahaseer; a sport fish of great strength and mystery that seems part tarpon, part carp and part steelhead. Feeding on nymphs and baitfish, these exceedingly clever fish run from one to upwards of 60 pounds. After closely following six weeks of exploratory mahaseer fishing in India we at Fly Water Travel have a good understanding of the challenge, mystery and mystique of chasing these remarkable fish. 

Thus far the fishing has been a mixed bag and somewhat more challenging than we had hoped. Our target river, the Mahakali has proved too large, silty and unstable for fly anglers. However one of its tributaries, the Saryu, has shown good number of fish and predictable flows. The Saryu is a handsome freestone that could be compared in size and flow to the Rogue River in Oregon, but with superior clarity. When hosting a group on the river last November, I personally saw a number of fish that weighed in excess of 40 pounds and one that I estimated at over 60 pounds. On three different trips the river has produced from as low as .5 mahaseer per angler per day to has high as three mahaseer per angler per day. Most of these fish were under five pounds but a number of anglers have hooked into fish that screamed into their backing and broke them off before any semblance of control was gained. The downside to the system is the fact that there are fair number of people around and the big fish are more spooky than permit!

Several recent trips have also been run out of a fixed camp on the Western Ramganga River. To date this may be the most promising river on the roster. The Western Ramganga averages sixty to eighty feet wide and looks like a good trout river. It is hard to imagine but this small river holds monster mahaseer. Recently Jeff Currier of Wyoming stalked and landed a fish that weighed an impressive 27 pounds! 

To date we have learned that these fish are very sensitive to water temperatures and are most happy with water above 60 degrees F. We have also found that the rivers that are most appealing to fish are quite clear and the fish in these clear waters are very sensitive to both light and sound. They must be approached with the utmost stealth. While spey rods are a great way to fish some of India’s more glacial rivers, the line tear while casting creates more noise than these fish will tolerate in the clear flowing systems. To date we have taken mahaseer while swinging mid- sized nymphs, streamers, wooly buggers, and sculpin patterns. 

All of our trips have been with the Himalayan Outback headed by Misty Dhillon. Misty is a very competent, articulate professional with a deep passion for fly fishing. His staff has provided excellent service and everything from travel logistics to camp meals have been exactly as advertised. His equipment is good and the river camps are invariably comfortable and well organized. With that said, it must be noted that these trips are best suited to skilled anglers who can do a lot of walking over rough, hot terrain. 

We have two distinct and personal reasons for pursuing mahaseer fishing in India. The first is that we are always interested in being on the early wave of anglers trying to figure out the secrets of catching species such as the mighty mahaseer on the fly. The sheer size and strength of these fish is amazing and the rivers they inhabit are every bit as intriguing. The other reason is the travel itself. Kenny and I have both spent a considerable amount of time traveling in Asia (a year and a half combined) and have developed a very strong bond to the region. We never knew that quality fly fishing would enable us to return but it has. While not all of the anglers that have traveled there with us have shared the same connection with the region, they all agreed that the sights, scents, sounds, and culture of this country are undeniably unique and distinct. In our travels we have seen the raw poverty of Delhi and stared in awe at the Taj Majal. We experienced overnight sleeper trains, and some heart stopping 4WD rides through mountain passes. We drank tea in small roadside huts, ate an astonishing array of curries and drank cool Indian beers on warm evenings around riverside camp fires. All in all we were touched by the many scenes and people we saw and met along the way. For most people a trip to India pursuing the mahaseer will be a wonderful and unforgettable adventure travel experience but one that they will not need to do again. But for a few it will be a place that will become an obsession; a place that holds its own magnetic appeal, to say nothing of the huge crafty hard fighting fish that more often than not will get the better of you!

John Day River Fly Fishing Pacific Northwest

Our group of six ladies ranged from rank beginners to experienced anglers and we spent three days and two nights floating and fishing for smallmouth bass. All and all it was a great trip. The first day we all met in Condon, Oregon (only 2 ½ hours from Portland) at the historical Condon Hotel. This is a charming hotel in the center of town complete with a nice bar and restaurant. Marty and Mia Sheppard and their staff came by to check in with us to determine the next morning meeting time. 

The day started early with a hearty breakfast at the Condon Café. Our first day on the water was tough, as we were the first group of the year and spring had come late to the Pacific Northwest. The river was still relatively high and cold, far from ideal for bass, but we managed to land a few fish. Each consecutive day improved greatly with warmer weather and water temperatures. We fished olive wooly buggers most of the time and lost count of the numbers of fish we caught days two and three. It just kept getting better and better. While most fish ranged from 10-14 inches, Nikki landed a 6lb bass that was heavily photographed and spoken of for days. She had a lot to be proud of – it could be the fish of the season. We are rootin’ for her. 

The John Day River curves and twists through vertical basalt cliffs with breathtaking views of incredible rock formations. There were painted hills, sagebrush and juniper, ospreys and eagles, deer, and the occasional snake. It was still early enough to see wildflowers in bloom including lots of lupine. 

We were in the middle of nowhere but we had what we needed. A tidy camp was always waiting for us at the end of each day. Our tents were fully set with comfortable cots and there was a nice kitchen, a dining table in the shade, a hand washing station, and a camp toilet. Each morning we had hot coffee and tea along with fresh fruit, pancakes or French toast, and sausage. Lunches were fresh salads and sandwiches while dinners included pasta with smoked salmon, grilled asparagus, teriyaki chicken and vegetarian sushi! Mia even brought a birthday cake for our friend Kate who celebrated her 22nd birthday on the trip. Marty, Mia, Kaitlin, Spanny, Kate, and Clabe were an amazing team. They were knowledgeable, fun and they worked well together taking care of every detail. 

This is a perfect trip for those who enjoy continuous action on a fly rod in a remote wilderness setting. It is great for kids, families, novices, and those just looking to enjoy one of the nation’s longest undammed rivers. All I could think about is how I could get my nieces and nephews on this trip next season. I hope to figure it out. Space is limited due to having a short season (June and July) so if you are interested let us know soon!

Fishing Bear Lodge Alaska

Truth be told, I had been looking forward to and planning this trip for many years. I have known Mike Trotter, owner of Baranof Wilderness Lodge and Justin Johns of Fishing Bear Lodge for years, and while I have always wanted to pay them each a visit, I really wanted to wait until my son Max was old enough join me. So this August, a week after Max's 10th birthday, we set off on a trip that will forever remain a hard one to beat.

Chapter One - Fishing Bear Lodge:

We began by flying to Dillingham, Alaska and then on to Justin John’s Fishing Bear Lodge. Located in the heart of the Wood/Tikchik State Park and Togiak Wildlife Refuge, Fishing Bear Lodge is a modest “mini-lodge” that is very well run and very reasonably priced. Taking no more than eight anglers per week,  the lodge provides access to a wonderful variety of wilderness creeks and rivers by jet boat. On Max's first cast of the trip, he hooked a big rainbow that thrashed his knuckles and eventually broke him off. Max then managed to break off three big char in a row, and then he hooked another fish he swore was “huge”. Roughly ten minutes later, the guides netted something they had never seen before; a 25 inch arctic char and a 19 inch char on a single hook! Welcome to Alaska!

My hope for Fishing Bear was that it would be a place where Max could learn some skills and be rewarded for his efforts and at the same time experience the wilds of Alaska. Ultimately, it was a great deal more. Max learned how to sight cast dry flies to huge grayling, how to indicator fish and even how to sight cast and strip flies for pike. By day three Max had developed the skill to sight cast, hook and land super hot rainbows over 20 inches. He even got so close to a 1,600 pound bull moose that he hit it with a rock! Kulik Creek, which flows out of the surreal spires of the Wind River range, was gorgeous and such great sight fishing for big grayling that we had to go back for a second visit.

Fishing Bear Lodge was everything we expected and more.  The distinct family feel and accommodating staff made the experience all the richer.  We felt like we were  "roughing it" and it  was a perfect complement to the spectacular scenery and fishing. For fathers and sons or entire families wanting to step into the Alaskan Wilderness with both feet, I can’t imagine a more perfect setting or a more diverse selection of quality wilderness fisheries. I will definitely be heading back, I hope with the entire family.

Chapter Two - Baranof Wilderness Lodge:

From Dillingham Max and I flew to Sitka, hopped on an amphibious float plane for a scenic flight across the island’s peaks and ice fields. We landed in the protected waters of Warm Springs Bay right in front of Baranof Wilderness Lodge. A hard place to describe, Baranof Wilderness Lodge has a massive waterfall crashing into the sea, schools of salmon breaking the surface, and natural hot spring surrounded by forested peaks. It's not hard to figure out why Mike Trotter built his lodge here. Back in the days of prohibition, this place was booming with a small mill, a large still, and a brothel. Today less than 30 people live here but pleasure cruisers and commercial fishing boats often anchor here for a soak in the hot springs.

Trotter runs one of those operations that is really hard to improve upon -- spotless boats and an immaculate dock, a smiling staff who knows your name before you get off the plane, fabulous food that showcases the bounty of the surrounding sea, and lots of things to do for every guest.  With conventional fishing for salmon, halibut and rockfish, it is by no means a typical Fly Water destination but there is some great fly fishing for pacific salmon, abundant Dolly Varden and cutthroat trout. The real beauty of it all is that regardless of skill level, visitors here will all have great fishing and a comfortable interface with the spectacular scenery and wildlife that Alaska is famous for.

Our first day out we crossed the Chatham Straits in a big boat and then hit the tides right to get into a seldom fished system on Admiralty Island. There were thousands of pinks swarming around and the river was packed with fish. We hiked way up the river and the only prints we found were from the numerous bears cruising the river. We crushed Dollies up to 20 inches on wets and skated dry flies, saw bears and eagles and had a blast. The following day we went salt water fishing and my son put the hurt on the halibut, landing one that weighed as much as he did. We caught a few nice coho as well. We saw roughly 30 humpback whales that day and knocked off fishing early to watch them feed and breech. It was an awesome experience for all of us. On the way back to the lodge we also paid a visit to a huge sea lion colony. Our last morning we fished rockfish with flies and light spin tackle and had a great time.

All and all it was a real treat and I cannot say I have ever been to better run operation. Also I must admit that showing up at home with 40 pounds of fresh halibut for the freezer was pretty good, even for a catch and release snob like me. All the stories have made my wife quite jealous --especially all the whale watching -- so next time we will visit with the entire family and maybe even invite the grandparents.